atomic_fungus (atomic_fungus) wrote,

#7130: Aw, COME ON

Trying to fix the wonky turn signals in the Jeep--for months they've been working intermittently, sometimes just quitting on me while I'm sitting and waiting to turn. I bought a relay for it months ago but found out what I had to do to get at the socket (take the kick panel off the dash) and resolved just to live with it until springtime.

Pulled the kick panel off, found the relay, needed a screwdriver to get it out of the socket--was that a spark?--checked the replacement--no way it would fit, so I tried buttoning everything up for a trip to the parts store.

No signal, no hazard. Blown fuse, probably, I clucked; well, I'll buy some fuses while there.

No problem exchanging it for the right fuse. I also took back the unnecessary PCV valve. Bought a $20 fuse assortment and a pair of new wiper blades since those are getting on, too.

Put the new relay in and--as expected--no clicky. No lights, nothing at all. As expected, so I moved over to the passenger side and had a gander at the fuse box. The owner's manual helpfully lists which position in the fuse box is for what circuit, but there's no guidance on how you identify those things. Turns out tiny, tiny numbers are cast into the block that holds the fuses, alongside the fuse sockets themselves, and I need strong light and no glasses and to get real close to make them out. After trying the wrong fuse three times, I found the right one, and found that it was still good.

Hmm. Still no clicky. No lights.

Reasoning that there is another fuse box under the hood, I went there and checked. The fuse kit includes a fuse puller that also has a nifty little tester in it--lights up for a good fuse, doesn't light for a bad one--and in pretty short order I'd identified the bad fuse. Which is good, because there are absolutely NO LABELS THERE whatsoever. 15 A, replaced it, now the lights come on at least but still no clicky. Swap in the old relay, lights and clicky.

The new relay is either the wrong kind, or bad. *sigh*

So I left everything as it is for now. It's not an emergency and I will just go to the parts store after work tomorrow and exchange it for the right part. I've left the kick panel off and the relay dangling out of it, so I can just pull the old and plug the new in right there and see if it works before I leave the parking lot--and if it does, then I just go home and button everything up. No problem.

* * *

Unboxed the new printer and set it up.

Windows 8 didn't need a driver disk and when I went to "add new printer" it detected it on the network without me having to do much of anything. The only vexing bit was having to go into the printer properties and actually tell the computer that the printer has a duplexer installed, but once I did that it was pretty simple to suss out how to tell the computer to print double-sided, and I ran off 10 pages of AV that way. Works pretty well.

The one thing that bothers me about it is the lack of a hard power switch. I like to be able to turn printers off when no one's going to be home, particularly ones that have parts that draw a lot of power and get very hot. Then again, I can always unplug it.

Had a ghastly moment where, during my first test print, it was claiming "no paper" after printing a page or two. Pulled out the paper tray and realized that the paper stop hadn't been adjusted. The paper tray can handle a bunch of different sizes of paper, and while 8.5" is its maximum width, the maximum length is a bit bigger than 11". The paper wasn't sitting right in the tray; once I adjusted the length, though, it printed correctly. So we have that going for us.

Duplexing is handled by sticking a sheet most of the way out into the delivery tray, then sucking it back in to print on the other side. Not as elegant as a printer that does all-internal duplexing but I'd wager I'd have to pay a lot more than $162 with tax for that.

* * *

And I got the front and side grass cut. Didn't take very long, of course. Headed into the back yard, but the ground felt extra spongy, so I decided just to stick with what I'd planned to do.

It's going to be cool for the rest of the week, but so far they've only predicted rain for Tuesday, so I'm hoping to get after the back yard sometime soon.

* * *

Had a gander at Miatas on Fabeboob Marketplace, and was not impressed. It's not as bad as Craigslist, but there was one guy who wanted $1750 for a car with a caved-in left-rear corner and significant wear on other bits. IDK--if it didn't have the collision damage I'd be interested in it at that price, because that's about what I'm looking to pay for one, but I'm looking for a basically straight, drivable car. It can have deficiencies and need fixing up--I don't mind that--but accident damage is out because I'm not a bodyman, and I have to be able to drive it because I want this thing first to use for getting around in while I'm fixing up the Jeep.

Craigslist is largely worthless these days because everyone who advertises there wants top dollar for junk. I've complained about it here before, but it never fails to amaze me.

Years ago I tried to sell my 1974 VW Type IV, so I put an ad in the sale paper. I don't remember the exact phrasing but I listed the mileage (something like 130,000), the fact that it ran great and got 27 MPG, that it had two new tires on it, and that it was fairly reliable. This was before the muffler blew out, by the way, so it was 100% drivable. Didn't say anything about the hole in the driver's side floor, because every word in the ad cost money, but I figured the asking price spoke for itself: $450. (I would have taken $350.)

Everyone who called--everyone--asked me if it had rust.

It's like, look: I'm asking $450 for a mechanically sound car, when a solid and drivable VW Beetle typically goes for about $2,000-$3,000 with some issues but no major problems. What do you think? *sigh*

Everyone wants top dollar for junk, and they want to pay pennies for gold.

Mid-1990s Miatas are common enough that I don't expect to pay a shitton of money for one. I might be willing to go slightly into debt for the right car, but ideally I'd like to pay less than $2k for one. But so far I haven't seen one car under $3,000 that wasn't utterly FUBAR one way or another.

One ad seemed to suggest that the car needed a new engine, which was why he was asking $1,000 for it, but I don't really know because there was no text with it.

...and then I think, screw it, find a small POS Ford Ranger for under a grand, and to heck with it all. *sigh*

* * *

It's Sunday evening. I'm going to make a pot of chili, eat some, and then try to relax. Tomorrow, we begin a brand new week. Whee!

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