February 13th, 2021

#7532: I am extremely surprised.

Apparently the senate actually voted to acquit Trump, along party lines. The impeachment wasn't "fortified", though I'll be switched if I know how that could be.

Also, I was operating under the mistaken impression that it takes 60 senators to remove. Thinking about it now, the Constitution says "two thirds" of the senate must vote to convict. Well, math was never my strong suit.

The Gangster Party could have managed 60 votes. Needing 67--no wonder so many people were confident this would go nowhere.

My mistake! And I am very happy to be wrong, believe me.

Even so, there was one extra vote to convict in there: someone who had voted against the whole thing being constitutional nonetheless voted to convict. I'll bet it was that guy from Alabama.

* * *

Myanmar's military acted in the face of a stolen election. This is the first real evidence I've seen of that interpretation of the event, but I was pretty certain that was the correct one just because of how all "the usual suspects" were reacting to the story.

So, commie creep was losing the election and had it "fortified", only the military stepped in at the sight of massive vote fraud and put a stop to it.

Really is a shame that a major first-world nation can't do that, but a small fringe country can.

* * *

Little Shitler's co-conspirators are angry that he's trying to make a buck, of course. Outside the leftist money machine, that is. You see, if you start a leftist organization that actually gets some traction, you get all kinds of money from America's rich communists.

Using his attendance of Parkland as a way to pretend he was endangered by the school shooting there--I say "pretend" because, very much like representative Horseteeth, he was nowhere near the action on that day and he was never threatened--he's managed to catapult his truculent ass to national notoriety and to secure a slot at Harvard.

Now that he's had to step down from "the board" of the organization he grifted into existence, though, I wonder if his stock will continue to be at all valuable? I mean, the left needs people to march, and he's not leading a march any longer. He's going to continue to champion the repression of civil rights, but not as a leader, and instead he's putting all this effort into his uselessly expensive pillow company.


* * *

Anyway, it's been kind of flurrying all day. It snowed last night, too, so we've got a couple inches' worth of fresh global warming. I haven't done anything about it, nor have I ventured outside.

I should get outside soon and get a picture of the huge icicle growing outside the dining room. It's like five feet long.

* * *

So the next step, I guess, is the senate is going to try to pass a bill of attainder to strip Trump of his post-presidential perks. Saw a blurb to that effect somewhere but didn't think about it much because my math error had me convinced that conviction was a slam-dunk.

Bills of attainder are, of course, unconstitutional, but since the Gangster Party is the party of emanations and penumbras, I don't think that'll matter. By the time a lawsuit could wind its way through the legal system, the supreme court will be packed with 84 marxist second-year law students. Maybe David "Little Shitler" Hogg will be one of them.

* * *

Anyway, cold tonight, cold tomorrow, another inch or so of snow. You know the drill.

Ah, winter. Yes; winter.

#7533: Well, I can find the paper manual now

No idea where my Haynes manual went, for the Jeep. I just broke down and bought a "lifetime subscription" to Haynes' on-line version of the manual, because the electrical glitch got worse again.

Tonight Mrs. Fungus and I decided we'd go to Portillo's for some roast beef sandwiches, and when we got into the Jeep, I found that the rear brake lights wouldn't go off. Or at least it seemed like that.

The defogger indicator light is staying on all the time now, whenever the engine is on. I went out and checked it a little bit ago and the brake lights are not on with the engine on, which is a good thing.

Anyway, I needed access to the wiring diagrams in the book I own but can't find, so I paid Haynes $20 to let me look at the images of it on-line. So naturally, now, the book will come crawling out of the woodwork.

Here's what I found: the damned manual does not include the rear defogger. The only mention of it is the instrument panel light in the switch; the defogger and its relay etc are utterly absent from teh wiring diagram. I checked every last page. I did a search in Googe and found something that contains it, and printed that out so I could refer to it.

Now, I never use the defogger, so I think I could just yank the relay for it and stop that behavior. THe problem is, I don't know if that fixes anything else. Probably not.

But it would give me information about where the short circuit is. What I know is, when I step on the brake, current is backfeeding through that light somehow. There are two or three possibilities that make, from here, any sense at all, but the most likely one seems to be that the issue is in the liftgate wiring.

In cars, just about everything uses a chassis ground. The negative terminal of the battery is connected to ground and everything else's negative terminal is also connected there, because the body of a car is usually metal and metal conducts electricity. It's cheaper than running ground wires for everything that needs power, it's just as good as using wires, and it's actually safer to boot.

The indicator light for the rear defroster connects between the defogger's relay's switched output, to ground. Period. The only way for it to get power and light up is for electricity to flow from the positive end of the defogger; and the only place those wires are in anything like close proximity should be at the back of the vehicle. If I take the relay out and see exactly the same behavior, that proves it.

The bothersome part is that the front turn signal and marker lamps, as well as the dashboard lights, are all going on when I step on the brakes. Going off of the wiring diagram, it looks as if there are only two wires that can cause all the symptoms I'm seeing: the wire from the brake switch, and the wire from the headlight switch to the fuse block. Because if you supply power to the headlight switch terminal that supplies the front running lights, it will also light up the instrument panel.

So it's got to be in the absolutely most inconvenient place one could have a short circuit: in the driver's side dashboard.

The truck is old enough that I would not be terribly surprised to have wire chafing issues. It means taking the driver's seat out and digging under the dashboard, though, and there's no way in hell I'm doing that with tomorrow's high temperature slated to be zero frigging degrees.

The real problem is this: the fuse for the brake lights is 15A. This wiring diagram suggests that the headlights are getting power, too, and their fuse is 20A.


The other thing: what I can try is to remove the trailer wiring harness and see if that makes a difference. I'm not sure what's in it; it's a black box you connect between two connectors in the electrical system. It'd be nice if that was the source of my problem. But it's not the way to bet, because that solution would be far too easy.

Anyway, once it's a reasonable temperature outside, I've got a couple of things to check: remove the relay for the rear defogger, and remove the trailer wiring. That should help me narrow things down, at least a little.